Pilgrims March to Cartago
by Rod Hughes
Thursday is the day of Our Lady of Angels (or, La Negrita, in Costa Rica), one of the biggest holidays in this predominantly Catholic country where Roman Catholicism is the official religion. What makes it special for foreign tourists is the annual tradition of the pilgrimage in foot to the Basilica in Cartago, the seat of the patron saint of Costa Rica.
No fewer than two million prilgrims come from all over the country under the watchful eyes of Red Cross paramedics and traffic police. Most make the trek from San Jose to Cartago along the edge of a tollway, a mere 22 kilometers through rolling, green hills, but a group of seven are walking from Guanacaste province–barefoot– to show their devotion.
Many are aspiring to the intervention of the Virgin (to whom many miracles are accredited) but others, especially teenagers, come in a spirit of adventure, tradition or companionship with chums who are more devout.
One other aspect of this Virgin sets this celebration apart—she is black. In fact, the black statue is a symbol of the inclusive nature of modern Costa Rican culture.
The origins of the statue are shrouded in legend. She was found near Cartago by a young girl, tradition has it, in 1635. Attempts by meddlers to move her to other locations were fruitless, legend continues, and she continued to reappear at exactly the same place, the site of the Basilica.
The trek often begins the week before the Saint’s Day. If the reader intends to participate, some words of advice, starting with appropriate footwear. Usually, the sun is hot in the morning, so do not spare the sunscreen. Take along bottled water or drinkables such as Gatoraide. (Beer, although often consumed, is not recommended.) Do not burdon yourself with unnecessary weight unless you are in superb physical condition. Sunglasses are important, as is an umbrella (it usually rains in the afteroon here.) Bright-colored clothes are adviseable, since traffic whizzes by unheeding.
One will arrive hot, dusty, footsore, sweat-soaked or even wet, if one starts too late, but probably as cheerful as most of the the walkers are. As The Tico Times staffwriter Mike Faulk wittily observed about the uncomplaining, “…Who ever heard of a high-maintenance pilgrim?”